9.25" x 3/4" NPT Thread Water Heater Magnesium Anode Rod - For Suburban & Atwood RV Water Heaters- 2 Pack

9.25" Magnesium Anode Rod for RV Water Heaters - Pack of 2

Key Features

• Sacrificial Corrosion Protection: Specifically designed to corrode in place of your water heater's steel tank, effectively neutralizing the "rotten egg" smell and preventing tank-killing rust.
• High-Grade Magnesium Alloy: Manufactured from premium magnesium, which is more reactive and efficient at protecting the tank lining than standard aluminum-zinc alternatives, especially in varying water hardness conditions.
• Integrated 3/4" NPT Hex Head: Features a standard 3/4-inch National Pipe Thread (NPT) fitting that utilizes a 1-1/16 inch socket for easy removal and installation during seasonal maintenance.
• Tank-Life Extension: By absorbing the electrolysis process, these rods prevent pinhole leaks and structural failure, potentially doubling the lifespan of your RV's water heating system.

Replaces / Cross-Reference Part Numbers

• Primary Part Number: 232767.
• Verified Cross-References: 233514, 233516, 12-0008, 87711, 232768.
• Manufacturer Equivalents: Suburban 232767, Camco 11523, Marty’s 232767.
• General Specification: 9.25" Length, 3/4" NPT Threads, Magnesium Construction.

Compatibility & Fitment

This anode rod is the industry standard for specific RV and camper water heater brands. Key compatible models include:

• Suburban Water Heaters: Fits nearly all Suburban 6, 10, and 12-gallon models (e.g., SW6D, SW6DE, SW10DE, SW12DE).
• Mor-Flo: Compatible with specific legacy Mor-Flo RV water heating units.
• Atwood (Aftermarket): While most Atwood tanks are aluminum and typically use a nylon plug, this 3/4" NPT rod fits specific aftermarket setups or models modified to require tank protection.
• Note: ALWAYS verify your thread size before installation. Most Suburban models use 3/4" NPT, while standard Atwood-specific drain ports are often 1/2" NPT.

When to Replace

• Annual Inspection: It is highly recommended to inspect the rod every 12 months. If more than 75% of the magnesium has been eaten away, it’s time for a change.
• Visible Core Wire: If you can see the thin steel wire running through the center of the rod, the magnesium is depleted and no longer protecting your tank.
• Foul Odor: A "rotten egg" (sulfur) smell in your hot water often indicates a spent or heavily calcified anode rod that can no longer neutralize bacteria and minerals.
• Heavy Pitting: If the rod looks like it has been "chewed on" or has deep craters, it is working correctly but is reaching its end of life.

Installation Tips

• Safety First: CRITICAL: Turn off the water supply and ensure the water is COLD. Relieve the pressure by opening the pressure relief valve before unscrewing the old rod to avoid a "geyser" of hot water.
• Use Teflon Tape: PRO TIP: Wrap the 3/4" threads with 3 to 5 turns of PTFE (Teflon) tape in a clockwise direction. This ensures a watertight seal and prevents the threads from seizing over the season.
• Tool Requirement: You will need a 1-1/16 inch socket and an extension to reach the hex head inside the water heater's exterior access door.
• Flush the Tank: While the rod is out, use a "tank rinser" wand to flush out the sediment and white calcium flakes that have settled at the bottom of the tank.
• Hand Start: Always start the threads by hand to avoid cross-threading the tank's inlet, which can be an expensive and difficult repair.